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Magazine

Fragrance

The Oud Obsession: Why Britain Fell in Love With Arabian Fragrance

From niche boutiques to mainstream shelves, oud has become the most talked-about ingredient in fragrance. Here's the story behind the obsession.

By Dripscan · 1 April 2026 · 2 min read

clear glass bottle with orange liquid
Photo by Rae Wallis on Unsplash

A decade ago, if you mentioned oud in a British perfume shop, you'd get a blank look. Today, it's one of the most searched fragrance terms in the country. Something shifted, and it shifted fast.

What Is Oud

Oud (also spelled agarwood) is a resinous wood produced by the Aquilaria tree when it becomes infected with a specific mould. The tree responds by producing a dark, fragrant resin as a defence mechanism. This resin, oud, has been used in perfumery for thousands of years across the Middle East, South Asia, and East Asia.

It's rare. The infected trees represent less than two percent of the total Aquilaria population in the wild. High-grade natural oud can cost more per gram than gold.

Why It Took Off in Britain

Several things happened at once. The British Asian community, particularly those with South Asian and Middle Eastern heritage, had always used oud as part of their relationship with fragrance. What changed was mainstream visibility.

Niche fragrance houses began incorporating oud into Western-style compositions. Tom Ford Black Orchid. Chanel's Sycomore. Then smaller, more serious houses started working with pure oud rather than oud accords. And then independent Middle Eastern brands began reaching UK customers directly.

Oud isn't a trend. It's a tradition that the West is finally catching up to.

The Oil Question

One of oud's distinctive qualities in traditional use is that it comes as an oil rather than an alcohol-based spray. This changes everything about how it performs. Applied directly to warm skin, oud oil develops slowly over hours. It's intimate, personal, and stays close to the body in a way that spray fragrances don't.

Where to Start

If you're new to oud, starting with a blended composition is easier than going straight to pure oud oil. Look for fragrances that use oud as a supporting note rather than the lead, this gives you the warmth and depth without the intensity of a full oud experience. Once you're converted, you won't look back.

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